The Fes Medina: What Locals Wish Every Visitor Knew
Fes el-Bali holds 9,000 alleys, a working 1,200-year-old university, and craft guilds that haven't changed since the Middle Ages. It's also intense — here's how to meet it well.
By Omar Tazi
Enter through Bab Boujloud, exit through Bab R'cif
The classic 'blue gate' entrance leads you downhill along Talaa Kebira, past the Bou Inania Madrasa and the tanneries, ending near the river. Uphill is a workout no one warns about.
The tanneries: go at 10 a.m.
The Chouara tanneries are best viewed mid-morning when workers are active and the light is soft. Any leather shop with a terrace will let you up for a fair tip — no purchase required, though sprigs of mint are.
Workshops worth the detour
The brass souk (Seffarine), Nejjarine's wood carvers, and the Aïn Nokbi ceramic quarter outside the walls. Skip the 'cooperatives' your driver recommends; they pay commission.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a guide in the Fes medina?
For a first half-day, yes — a licensed guide (300–500 MAD) prevents the classic 'lost tourist' spiral. After that, getting lost is the point.
Is Fes safe to walk at night?
The main medina arteries are lit and busy until 11 p.m. Side alleys empty out; stick to the streets your riad recommends after dark.
How many days do I need in Fes?
Two full days minimum: one for the medina with a guide, one to wander on your own and see Chefchaouen or Volubilis as a half-day trip.